Mancini Modern Italian

Last Activity: May 2nd, 2014

mancini modern 0414

Location

401 E Las Olas Blvd Suite 150
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301
(754) 200-8602
What's Nearby

Critic's Rating

Rating3.3
Food
Service
Ambiance
Last Review: 05/02/13

Information

HoursOpen for Lunch and Dinner
Dress CodeNeat Casual ParkingStreet Metered, Garage
CCYes AlcoholFull Bar
OutdoorYes ReservationsYes
DeliveryNo

Critic's Review

When Mancini Modern Italian first opened, I went down to check it out. With the indoor/outdoor bar on the sidewalk, I questioned whether people would be lining up 4 deep in the space next to Subway. I looked at the menu and I was surprised to see that this was now the most expensive restaurant on Las Olas.

I didn't see much reason to spend money to find out what I already knew, so I didn't make coming here a priority. I needed some motivation. Recently, there have been a slew of "reviews", some of them just plain incompetent and others quite suspicious; when a bunch of Miami based bloggers write overly glowing articles about a place we simply know isn't that good, it has to raise an eyebrow. Particularly when one of the bloggers failed to mention the M-Bar at all, and was just so overwhelmed that she felt the need to tweet 7 times. If she has any connection to the restaurant whatsoever she's committing a crime; and those kind of things really tick me off. Are these bloggers too stupid to notice that the "chefs" have no determinable background worth mentioning? Or are they on someone's payroll?jump-->

To get a complete idea of the background, Mancini owned the restaurant that is now Tundra, which was inexplicably fairly popular. The big pull was not the food, which nobody that I knew ever thought was much good; it was the patio ambiance and the live music. I reviewed the place and concluded that it was just an overpriced place with bad food. He tried a stint in Delray; he was in the building that is now Vic and Angelo's, but that was short-lived. He purchased the old Cathode Ray building down the block in 2006; when the economy crashed he was stuck in the old location until he could get financing for a move. Finally, in 2011 he opened the M Bar at 1301 Las Olas. The M Bar was a nice bar with a rip-off concept; "Global Tapas"; small plates at big prices; weird stuff like pigs ears and small blocks of "kobe" ribs that tasted like squares of bottom round. Mancini hired the Gab Group to try to sell the charade and hired 2 headline chefs who really hadn't done much other than work at places that were highly acclaimed. Five weeks after opening, half of the kitchen staff quit, including the 2 chefs; one of the line cooks reported to us that they couldn't make payroll. For the next few months, M Bar was more comedy than a destination; Mancini hired washed up nobody Kevin McCarthy, who had parlayed other people's recipes into the acclaimed "Armadillo Cafe" back when you couldn't use the internet to figure out that the recipes came from somewhere else.

So when Mancini opened this place with New York City prices I was surprised; everyone in Fort Lauderdale knows that his food isn't worth what he's charging, so what is he hoping to do? Fool a few Canadian tourists? Or is he just so arrogant that he doesn't even think he needs to establish the place as having good food before he charges more than Andrew Carmellini at Locanda Verde for a bowl of pasta?

With Mancini only open a few weeks, he's already lost his initial chef, Roger Llames. He tried to pass him off as some sort of big time hire out of BLT Prime; but there's isn't a trace of a mention of the guy anywhere in Google's archives. This is the typical Fort Lauderdale trick; find guys who'll work for scale and embellish their background to make them sound like a somebody. No matter, as Llames is already gone and Claudio Sandri is back in the kitchen; the same guy who worked at both the Original Mancini's and for a short stint at M Bar. So we know we're not getting top notch cuisine here.

Part of the deal is going to places I may not want to go to, so I walked in at 1:45 and got a table. With 2 other diners in the place, I knew I wouldn't have to worry about getting a server's attention. I ordered some iced tea with extra lemon and listened to the specials; they had more specials than customers. Most of the menu didn't interest me; I wasn't going to order mussels or a $14 salad. I thought about the hanger steak, but decided to go with the "Orchiette", which I assumed was Orecchiette; which seemed to be a variation of the classic dish with Broccoli rabe and sausage.

As with the M Bar, this is a very attractive restaurant, with sturdy dark wood furniture, 2 bars, an open kitchen and a wood burning oven. It's certainly a lot nicer than Rossopomodoro; the pizza joint that was here before.

Mancini Modern Italian Interior

Mancini Modern Italian Interior


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The music in the place is arguably too loud, all of the songs while I was there were by Eros Ramazzotti. It's kind of strange, but better than Katy Perry or Techno. A runner dropped off 3 pieces of bread; so for a minute I was sitting there with bread, no oil or butter, and I wasn't quite sure what to do with it. My server swung by with a plate of bread and butter, and raised his brow when he saw the lonesome bread. He just shook his head and took it away; I asked for some oil also and he brought that over shortly.

Mancini Modern Italian Bread

Mancini Modern Italian Bread

The bread was softer than it looked and the garlicky butter spread was excellent; the oil provided was good quality; the bread was a winner.

The pasta came out more quickly than I expected.

Mancini Modern Italian Broccoli Rabe Pesto and Sausage

Mancini Modern Italian Broccoli Rabe Pesto and Sausage

This was a little different than I expected. The first sign of trouble was that the "little ears" were all stuck together; if nothing else an indication of a lazy chef. The dish was very flavorful with lots of cheese and garlic. It wasn't bad, but the variation was a flop, as the brocolli rabe was overcooked and the bitterness was overpowered by the pesto. The sausage also wasn't browned; it seemed like it was boiled or something. The point of the dish is to pair the bitter greens with the rich fat from the sausage; here the bitterness was cooked out and there was no remnant of the sausage fat.

The dish is so easy to make, and it's great, so why does every "chef" in town have to change it? At YOLO, Boulukos ruined it with Feta cheese and peppers, while Big City Tavern makes it with "poached" garlic and white wine. Just toss the pasta and the rabe in the fat and some of the water for pete's sake.

Service was very good, although a broken glass delayed me from getting my bill for a short time. $23 for pasta and iced tea. What a deal.

So what we have here is exactly what I thought; a nice restaurant with mediocre food at New York City prices. With no history of good food; it's difficult for me to consider spending what Mancini is charging to sample his "ideas". I'd rather just have a pizza.

Related Articles

Mancini Back on Las Olas (08/20/2012)
Mancini's Closes , (05/14/2011)
Mancini's Restaurant 1017 E Las Olas Blvd Fort Lauderdale FL, 33301 (05/13/2011)

Showing 18 Comments

Comment Policy Add Comment
HankReply
There was a Sheriff's Eviction Notice placed on the door yesterday (4/29).

This restaurant is done.
AdministratorReply
Classic Mancini. Probably hasn't paid rent since December.
ElizabethReply
Another Mancini establishment bites the dust... according to their Facebook page they are "temporarily closed as we search for a new location". Can't say this is a surprise.
AdministratorReply
The Daily Melt opening was the final nail in the coffin
AdministratorReply
Mancini is really becoming quite a pariah. Getting girls trying desperately to be bloggers or PR people to shill for the restaurant. Why not try to make the business better and price it more realistically? Why try to sell a loser with fake advertising and shills?
KarlReply
This place is horrible . I went their for lunch with a few co workers and it took 45 mins to get a couple sandwiches and salads. To top it off the food wasnt even appealing ,overpriced and service with an attitude. I wont recommend this place to anyone.
AnnaReply
...i love reading your acidic ramblings. you're a hoot. not sure if you're seriously reviewing Mancini, or he stole your girlfriend away (or some such thing) and you simply hate the guy... va bene...
AdministratorReply
He's just a clown act, and I'm tired of the same bad actors opening one bad restaurant after another.
Timmy PReply
I love the pizza very good but all the times ive been there only 5-6 people in the whole restuarant..Yikes!!
ted anthony inserraReply
i am back working nights for Jack!!!
AdministratorReply
You're the only one who'll work for food....
BruceReply
Hide your girlfriends!! He hits on everything with a skirt...LOL
frankReply
Little to no chance of success in this location. Somewhat understandable that a foreign outfit like Rossopomodoro could it get it wrong (although they got a whole lot of other things wrong as well), but from a local - I just do not get it.
JesseReply
Going into business with Him may be their first bad move!
AdministratorReply
You could do a very nice lunch business here at the right price point. There are few options for the local office workers at a fair price for lunch. Subway. Hot Tomatos. Are you kidding me?
frankReply
True about the lack of local lunch spots, but they are building an inside-outside bar area and seemingly another bar inside - that seems more evening focused. And the former Mancini's, while probably the best patio on Las Olas, was severely overpriced for the quality of the food, so I am not holding out hope for well priced lunch options. I hope I am proved wrong.
AdministratorReply
I'll hold judgement until it's done. I'm more concerned about the prospect of a $15 meatball than I am the layout.
CLOSED! It was only a matter of time....