Critic's Review
Steve Martorano has taken over the space previously occupied by Jazziz and has created a 7,400 square foot venue in Hard Rock's Seminole Paradise. The new restaurant is nothing less than spectacular. In fact its a bit mind-boggling that you'd see such a place opening in a depressed economy. Steve's planet sized ego is on full display here; and in this case he's created something truly different and interesting.
The palatial space literally takes over the Seminole Paradise with its booming music and majestic frontal appeal. There's also an outside bar to handle the overflow when things really get going late in the evening.
Inside there's a large dining area up front, and a large rectangular white marble bar in an elevated section in the rear. There's also a white marble "mozzarella bar" where you can be served by a chef rather than a bartender. In the rear is another dining area dedicated to The Rat Pack, with large pictures of Dino and Co dominating the space. There are HDTV monitors throughout, alternating between showing classic old movies and cooking shows featuring Steve. The 10,000 watt JBL sound system with live DJ belts out Sinatra songs with some Lou Monte sprinkled in for fun.
Beyond the glitz, this place is a restaurant first and foremost. In South Florida, where great food is hard to find, Martorano's wows those most familiar with Il Mulino and who have never experienced Locanda Verde. The cheeses here are first rate; with ricotta that could pass for ice cream with a bit of sugar, and mozzarella that is fresh, firm and delicious. But to me, the signature meatball is just very good; it doesn't dazzle the taste buds with every forkfull the way great Italian food can; the salad is so garlicy it literally hurts the tongue. The Gravy is good and sweet; but again not spectacular.
Martorano's is more than just a restaurant; its an experience. Its a club and a bar and a restaurant all in one. While you probably could spend your entire evening here; few can afford it. A meatball salad and a glass of Peppoli will run you $47 with tip. So enjoy the aura and bring your wallet. There's a new Martorano's in town.
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